Growing up in Oregon, I was surrounded in spring and summer by fields of berries, mostly strawberry because they have higher productivity than raspberries. And strawberries behave themselves, while raspberries tend to “grow wild” and spread out of control. They are members of the rose family after all.
The United States grows 9% of the worldwide crop. Russia grows 26%. I have no idea what Putin and his associates do with them. I will research. There’s only so much vodka you can make.
The beverage above has no vodka, but it does have a bit of a kick. This is my latest agua fresca and I investigated what to do about the essential flavor of raspberries. Don’t get me wrong. I love raspberries. The color of raspberry red is immediately recognizable. Darker, deeper, more mysterious than pure strawberry read.
No, my issue is that raspberries tend to be tart and have a monolithic flavor. These days, mixologists will use 6+ ingredients to create cocktails with an abundance of flavor notes and layers. Wine makers have, of course, been doing the same for centuries. There is surely some difference between a deep Burgundy and the one-note of Welches Grape Juice.
Same issue as the raspberries: one note. The skills of a mixologist need not be devoted to just cocktails. Any beverage can be experimented with, extended, and amplified.
To give raspberries more flavor here, I’m doing a yin-yang approach. There is some lemon juice, which always brightens. There is sugar to sweeten. And there is Adobo Honey — see yesterday’s post! — for a second layer of sweetness and just the barest image of heat in the finish of your sip. This drink is not fiery, but it has full sweetness and series of flavor layers that you will sense and adore.
About the sweetness. This recipe calls for 1 cup of simple syrup, which consists of ½ cup of water and ½ cup of sugar. You’ll find agua fresca recipes that call for a range of sugar: from 1 tablespoon to that full ½ cup. You can adjust as you wish. But the sugar syrup is viscous, and I find that it adds some body to the drink. Textures is one of the senses involved in “tasting” food and here the syrup plays a double role of sweeter and “thickener.”
To make it easy for you, the Adobo Honey is made with ⅔ cup honey and 1 teaspoon adobo sauce from a can of chipotle pepper in adobo. Please, start with 1 teaspoon the first time out. Go for more heat in future experiments.
Raspberry Adobo Agua Fresca
Yield: 4+ cups
- Two six-ounce packets of fresh raspberries
- 3 cups of water
- Juice of one medium lemon
- 1 cup of simple syrup
- 1 tablespoon of Adobo Honey
Put the berries and water in a blender and process for two minutes. Strain through a fine wire mesh sieve. There will be considerable residue — with a blender and even with a Vitamix.
Stir in the lemon juice, simple syrup, and adobo honey. Mix very thoroughly. The honey can be viscous, so you may want to warm it before stirring in.
Chill thoroughly before consuming. At least 4 hours. And then, you can taste test. More sweetness is unlikely. But you can mix this agua fresca with some sparkling water to dilute the flavor a tad while imposing those bubbles. Or, you can mix this with the sparkling wine of your choice, in the proportions of your choice, to create an unmatched summer aperitif.
Sources: Brian O’Rourke
Photo Information Canon T2i, EFS 60 mm Macro Lens, F/5.0 for 1/15th second at ISO-3200
“What do you think of this?” Suzen showed me a picture. Quite an attractive picture.
“You know I’m color blind,” I said.
“Blue-green. Not red. You don’t run red lights.”
“Not with you in the car,” I said.
“So? What do you think?”
“I think it’s spectacular.” Actually, I could barely contain myself. This recipe is called a cake roll but I much prefer the French roulade. So romantic as the syllables roll out of your mouth. So delicious as each bite goes into your mouth. I always want my Buche de Noel, a chocolate roll that adorns many Christmas day tables. To get a roulade in April seemed to be a late holiday miracle.
Suzen was prepping for a family party, one where folks who had not seen each other in a decade would gather. She, and I, wanted something spectacular. To the eye and to the mouth.
Flo Braker ranks in the very top tier of dessert cookbook authors. Personally, she is a charmingly warm woman, intelligent and skilled. Her books are wonders. They are filled with well-tested, clearly written, and sumptuously delicious recipes. Her latest book, Baking for All Occasions, is a seminal work. I’ll write more about the book and incredible spectrum of treats it offers tomorrow.
Today, here is Flo’s Red Velvet Cake Roll that Suzi made and presented at that family party. Good party. Good, great cake. Our thanks, once again, to Flo.
Red Velvet Cake Roll
Yield: 1 15-inch rolled cake, 12 to 14 servings
For the cake:
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoon unsweetened natural cocoa powder
- ½ teaspoon baking soda
- ⅛ teaspoon salt
- ½ cup milk
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 1 teaspoon apple cider or white vinegar, 5% acidity
- 4 ounces unsalted butter, at room temperature
- ¾ cup granulated sugar
- 1 large egg, lightly beaten
- 1 tablespoon liquid red food coloring
For the White Chocolate-Cream Cheese Filling:
- One 9-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature
- 5 ounces white chocolate, melted
- 2 ounces unsalted butter, softened
- 1/3 cup powdered sugar, sifted
- ½ teaspoon pure almond extract [or vanilla]
- 1 cup red raspberries, picked over for stems or leaves
- Powdered sugar
- More red raspberries
Before baking: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 375⁰ F. Coat a small area in the center of a 15 ½ by 10 ½ by 1-inch pan (jelly-roll pan) with nonstick spray. Line the pan with aluminum foil, pressing the foil into the contours of the pan and leaving a 2-inch overhang at each short end (the spray anchors the foil in place to make buttering easier). Butter the foil, then flour it, tapping out the excess flour. Have all of the ingredients at room temperature.
To make the cake: Sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper; set aside. Ina small bowl, stir together the milk, vanilla, and apple cider. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium-low speed until creamy and smooth, about 1 minute. Increase the speed to medium and add the granulated sugar in a steady stream. Continue to beat until light in color and fluffy in texture, about 2 minutes, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl.
With the mixer on medium speed, add the egg slowly, about 1 tablespoon at a time, beating after each addition until incorporated and stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. On the lowest speed, add the flour mixture in two or three additions alternately with the milk mixture in one or two additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture and mixing after each addition only until incorporated smoothly.
Stop the mixer after each addition and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Maintaining the same speed, add the food coloring and mix well to color the batter evenly. Without delay, spoon the batter into the prepared pan, spreading evenly with a rubber spatula. Bake the cake until it is set on top and springs back when lightly pressed in the center, about 10 minutes.
Transfer the pan to a wire rack. If necessary, run a thin knife blade around the perimeter of the pan to loosen the cake sides. Then pull up on the foil overhang and carefully transfer the cake to a wire rack. Without delay, place a sheet of foil over the cake and manipulate the foil to make a shallow tent (a tent holds in the moisture as the cake cools, but prevents the foil from sticking to the cake). Let cool for about 45 minutes, then proceed to assemble the dessert.
While the cake is cooling, make the White Chocolate-Cream Cheese Filling: In a bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese on medium-low speed until smooth. Pour in half of the chocolate and beat until smooth, stopping the mixer occasionally and scraping the mixture clinging to the sides into the center of the bowl. Pour in the remaining chocolate and beat just until combined. Add the butter and then the sugar and almond extract and beat until smooth and creamy.
Use right away, or store in a covered container in the refrigerator. When ready to use, remove from the refrigerator, bring to room temperature, and beat with a rubber spatula, small whisk, or fork until smooth and creamy. You should have about 1 ⅓ cups.
To assemble the cake: Remove the foil from the top of the cake. Transfer the cake on its bottom sheet of foil to a work surface, placing it so that one of its long sides is parallel to the edge of the surface closest to you. Place another long sheet of aluminum foil on the work surface nearby. Using an offset spatula, spread 1 cup plus about 2 tablespoons of the filling evenly over the cake, leaving a ½-inch border uncovered on the long side farthest from you. (The leftover filling, along with a few berries, makes a good kitchen snack for the baker.) Place the raspberries, if using, randomly on the filling along the length of the cake.
Begin rolling the cake by flipping the edge nearest you over onto itself. Then, with the aid of the foil that extends beyond the short sides, roll up the cake lengthwise until you reach the far long side. As you work, wrap the foil around the roll to assist in rounding the shape
(otherwise the cake will stick to your hands). Place the roll in its foil across the bottom third of a 24-inch-long piece of parchment paper. To compress the cake, pull the rest of the parchment paper up and over the cake towards you. Use a long ruler or a sheet pan to press forward towards the cake on the top of the bottom sheet of the paper while pulling forward towards you on the top sheet.
Carefully lift the roll in the aluminum foil and set it, seam side down, on the fresh sheet of foil. Wrap the cake securely in the foil. Transfer the foil-wrapped roll to a baking sheet or shallow tray and refrigerate for about 30 minutes to help set the filling.
To serve: Remove the cake from the refrigerator and peel off and discard the foil. Carefully lift the roll onto a serving plate with the aid of a long, wide spatula or a rimless baking sheet. (If not serving right away, cover loosely with plastic wrap to keep the cake’s surface from drying out and return to the refrigerator to serve the same day.) Dust the cake with powdered sugar. Using a serrated knife and a sawing motion, cut the roll into ½-inch thick slices. Center each portion on a dessert plate. Accompany with the raspberries.
Source: Baking for All Occasions by Flo Braker