Suzi's Blog

Malted Milk Chocolate Sauce

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Early in the 1900s, in Switzerland some people made a product from egg [Latin ovum] and malt. They called it Ovomaltine and you mixed it with milk and drank it. When the product was exported in 1909 to Great Britain, someone made a spelling mistake on the trademark registration. Thus was born Ovaltine.

The beverage quickly spread to the United States and was heavily marketed to kids before and just after World War II. The US children's radio series Little Orphan Annie  (1931–1940) and  Captain Midnight (1938–1949), and the subsequent Captain Midnight TV series (1954–1956), were sponsored by Ovaltine. Every kitchen had a container of one of the Ovaltine products [some with cocoa and malt, some only with malt, some only with cocoa]. The popularity spawned great factories for manufacturing the product. Today, some of those factories survive and are still in production, some are legacy buildings beloved for their architecture and converted into apartment buildings, some demolished for super highways.

While it's popularity is past its peak, Ovaltine is still on store shelves and still well enjoyed. Chefs and cookbook authors, in search of old-fashioned malt flavor, are now incorporating Ovaltine into all sorts of recipes. With the 4th of July holiday approaching, with the chance you'll have a cake or ice cream on the table, here's an old fashioned malted milk chocolate sauce that you can put to multiple use.

From the cookbook and Brooklyn milestone Bakery Baked, this is a riff on the classic thick hot fudge sauce you may have grown up on. The folks at Baked have added that very chocolate malt to achieve an old-fashioned toasty flavor and increased richness over "normal fudge sauce." [Is there such a thing?].  The sauce is ideal, of course, for ice cream but you can top pies or pound cakes with it. Yes, pecan pie with chocolate sauce is fervently allowed on holidays. Or, or, add a tablespoon of the sauce to a glass of Coke or Pepsi for a “chocolate coke” that will be memorable. [Not to be done after 10 PM, please; we are not responsible for any induced insomnia].

Lastly, some malted things taste like malt, which would be a bad thing with ice cream. This sauce tastes like chocolate with just some background tones that you would have to be a tasting expert to identify. The sauce has body and flows richly in your mouth.

In short, you'll like this.

Malted Milk Chocolate Sauce

Yield: 2 cups

Ingredients:

  • 2/3 cups heavy cream
  • ½ cup light corn syrup
  • ¼ cup chocolate malt Ovaltine
  • ¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 6 ounces good-quality milk chocolate, coarsely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preparation:

In a large saucepan, bring the cream, corn syrup, Ovaltine, brown sugar, salt, and 4 ounces of the chocolate to a boil over medium heat. Stir until smooth and the chocolate has melted. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and, stirring very slowly, cook for 5 minutes.

Removed from the heat and stir in the butter, vanilla, and the remaining 2 ounces chocolate. Let sauce cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

To store, cool the sauce completely and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Reheat in a microwave or over low heat on the stovetop.

 

Source: Baked [New Frontiers in Baking] by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito and Wikipedia

Malted Milk Meringues

malted

 

In 1982, I bought a cookbook which has been my sidekick ever since. The Meringue Cookbook by Margaret Shakespeare was typical for its time: just under 10” X 7”, 220 pages, mediocre paper, no pictures. But great recipes for that fluffy stuff I just relish. Truth is, all I ever made from The Meringue Cookbook was one cookie recipe but I’ve just rescanned it and there’s much more there – items I’ll be sharing with you.

Why did I rescan the old book? Because I have a new sidekick: Meringue by Linda Jackson and Jennifer Evans Gardner. What can happen in meringue-land in 30 years. A lot. Physically, this book still comes in at 220 pages, but this one is 10” x 9” on fine quality paper, bigger and beautiful fonts, lots of inviting pictures and recipes that are marvelous.

Meringue is an important book, one that you should consider. Here you will find cookies, pavlovas, bars, tarts, pies, cakes, tortes, vacherins, dacquoises, and frostings. There is year of grand recipes here, ready for you and your eggs and that whip attachment in your stand mixer.

The photography is quite contemporary and entirely seductive. The Banana Cream Pavlova will have your tongue on the page. I know, that sounds disgusting. Look at the picture on Page 76, though, and temptation will be upon you.

I’m testing recipes already, one or two a week. They work perfectly, and I thank Meringue for the techniques it conveys.

I am a fan of drop-sized meringue cookies. They have always haunted me. I cook too long or too short, too hot or too cool. I use too much sugar or not enough. I have never, ever crafted a meringue like you have in Paris. Until now. The technique here, 90 minutes at 200°F and then an hour more with oven heat off, produces perfect French meringue cookies. Dry, but not crackled. No inner layer of bubbles or, or worse, moist bubbles.

Perfect.

“Why are you buying malt balls?” Suzen asked me at our candy store on Saturday.

“For you,” I said.

She snorted, because she does like malt balls and I did not use to like them and then we got this recipe for Malt Ball Ice Cream and … Well, I think she thought it was all a set up for ice cream on Sunday. Instead, she got these Malt Ball Meringues. She’s happy. I’m happy. We are out of malt balls. Just part of the balance of life.

 

Malted Milk Meringues

Yield: about 48

Ingredients:

  • 3 large egg white, room temperature
  • 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
  • 1 cup superfine sugar
  • 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla
  • 6 ounces high quality malt balls, coarsely chopped

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 200°F.

In the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites and cream of tartar, increasing the speed to medium-high until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar, about a tablespoon at a time, beating on high until peaks are stiff and glossy. Mix in the cocoa powder and vanilla, about 1 minute more. Gently fold in the malt balls.

Drop by well-rounded teaspoons onto parchment-lined baking sheets, about 1 inch apart. Bake for 90 minutes. Turrf the heat and leave the meringes to dry, 1 hour or more. Cool completely before removing from baking sheets.

Source: Meringue by Linda Jackson and Jennifer Evans Gardner