Sauce Gribiche

Sauce Gribiche

One central reason for the beloved quality of French food is the sauces: the range of flavor and intensities is a treasure trove for us. There is, sadly, a little reluctance to go treasure hunting. Truth is, we are all too often in a fast food mood. We are having...
Caper Butter

Caper Butter

  It’s a Friday in July. The odds are that today or tomorrow or Sunday, you’ll buy summer corn, sweetening with each week of additional sun. And then you’ll grill or boil or broil or microwave those ears for one or more weekend meals. Salt and...
Parmesan-Crusted Veal Chops Finished with Lemon and Capers

Parmesan-Crusted Veal Chops Finished with Lemon and Capers

  There is a lovely book — Olives, Anchovies, and Capers by Georgeanne Brennan [2001] — that Suzen and I often turn to. We love food with a bite, thus explaining our penchant for hot sauces and the cuisine of Santa Fe. But Mediterranean cuisines have long had the...
Salmon Dip with That Leftover Salmon

Salmon Dip with That Leftover Salmon

  The nightmare is always the same. I am hungry, I go downstairs to the refrigerator, open the door, and there it all is. The fridge is filled with stacks of one overpowering awful, disgraceful dish. Salmon cakes. The only thing you can make with leftover salmon....