Suzi's Blog

Anchovy Dressing from The A.O.C. Cookbook by Suzanne Goin

There is nothing subtle about anchovies. If used in a recipe, the flavor can almost always be distinguished. You might as well try to conceal an elephant. Perhaps you’ve had anchovies in Caesar Salad, ideally one made at your tableside with the anchovies being mashed by hand. This dressing might be called Caesar actually. It…

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Midweek Lamb from LEON: Friends and Family

  That picture above there? It’s not good. I had to get a stock photo and play with Photoshop. Why didn’t I already have a picture of a boneless leg of lamb? Well, the simple fact it, Suzen and I don’t eat lamb that much. We like it, we do cook lamb — by the…

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Anchovy Sauce from Northern Italy

There are memories that seem to linger in your memory for decades, as clear as the moment you first experienced them. For Suzen and me, a trip to the fish market in Venice is one of those symbolic times. We were there one gray morning, the air cold and smelling of salt and fish, as…

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Classic Olive Tapenade with Capers and Anchovies

Yesterday’s post, on capers, mentioned the specialty book Anchovies, Olives and Capers by Georgeanne Brennan. Those three Mediterranean ingredients all have some common characteristics: intensity of flavor, easily recognized flavor, and saltiness from their preparation. What would happen if you combined all three? Well the French asked and answered that question long ago. Here is…

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