Not all blue cheeses are created equal. Some, which I shall not name, are harsh. There is no other way to say it. That fungal aroma assaults your mouth, lodges in the upper throat, and refuses to go away — no matter how much wine you consume.

While I do appreciate a pungent blue as much as the next person, there are times when a little subtlety is appreciated. Stilton, a name we all recognize, is just such a marvelous blue. You taste that hearty “blue” flavor but it does not overpower you or your taste buds. It’s just blue enough.

There actually is a website for Stilton:

http://www.stiltoncheese.co.uk/

There you will learn that Stilton can only be made in three counties located in the heart of Great Britain. Local, pasteurized milk has to be used. The shape of the cheese is fixed, the aging process strictly set. And those distinctive blue veins must, as the top picture shows, must radiate outward from the very center of the cheese.

There are many ways to use Stilton — much beyond cheese and crackers! One very British way is to serve a Stilton soup, often with cauliflower. From the new book Edwardian Cooking, here is a Stilton Chowder offering Stilton flavor tempered with sautéed veggies.

Be oh so careful when making this soup. It cannot boil. None of it can boil, or the creaminess is lost.

What is the taste? Stilton for sure, but that quiet, dignified Stilton flavor. Plus the notes of onions, carrot, and celery with the richness of stock and milk. This soup is not thick, but it tastes hearty. In a large bowl, it can be a meal unto itself. A cup of this soup and a salad are complete lunch or dinner.

On the side, white wine, cold and rich. Stilton is, after all, a regal cheese.

Stilton Chowder

Yield: serves 4

Ingredients:

• ¼ cup butter
• 1 yellow onion, chopped
• 1 carrot, peeled and chopped
• 1 stalk celery, chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• ¼ cup flour
• 3 cups chicken stock
• 2 cups milk
• ½ pound Stilton cheese
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• Chives or herbs for garnish, optional

Preparation:

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and bay leaf and sauté 5 minutes.

Stir in the flour until well combined.

Stir in the stock and milk until smooth and thickened.

Stir in the cheese and mustard and continue stirring until the cheese has melted and the soup is smooth.

Bring soup just to the point of a simmer. Do not let it come to a boil.

Ladle the soup into bowls and serve.

Source: Edwardian Cooking by Larry Edwards

Photo Information [top]: Canon T2i, 18-55mm Macro Lens, f/4.5, 1/50^th second, ISO-1600

Photo Information [bottom]: Canon T2i, 18-55mm Macro Lens, f/4.5, 1/50^th second, ISO-640