Suzi and I have a problem. We go to France. We fly into Paris with the best of intentions: stay a few days, then take the train somewhere else: south, east, north, west. Finally a couple of weeks ago, sitting in a Paris café on our tenth consecutive day in the city, Suzi made a statement: “We are not flying into Paris next time. Find somewhere else to start.”
And we when we came home, what did I find but my review copy of Flavors of the French Mediterranean by Michelin three-star chef Gérald Passedat. Next time, we are flying to Marseille. And if you look at this book, you will want to journey too to the south of France. All the way south to the coast with its abundance of wonderful foods so beautifully displayed in this book. This is still France, but it is not Paris.
We hear “Marseille” and we think about a French seaport. It is certainly that. And the second largest city in France after Paris. But Marseille has a history that extends back tens of thousands of years. Humans have roamed the coastline there for 30,000 years. The first city itself was established about 600 BC by Greeks coming from the Aegean coast of Turkey. Greek cities dealt with overpopulation by sending out groups of settlers to found new cities – and those settlers were not welcome back. It was “go forth and succeed.”
First the Greeks then the Romans controlled the city which early on became one of the main trading hubs of the world. As Gaul evolved in France, Marseille evolved into a military and commercial bastion, and remains that power today.
Gérald Passedat was born and raised in Marseilles. He apprenticed in leading restaurants, mastered his craft, began his own restaurant, and earned his three stars in 2008. Only 27 chefs in France, and 117 in the world, enjoy this top status. His book is a tribute to the very special cuisine of sea and countryside that he knows so well. Here are two recipes, typical of those in the book, that are simply and impossibly inspiring.
First, for a main course, here is the Beefed Filled Squid in Tomato Sauce:
And for dessert, Baked Figs in Provencal Wine Sauce:
I would simply die to delight with these meal. And, with this book in hand, I can.
These two examples are wonderfully attractive recipes, but I hesitate to call them the best in the book. They are truly, simply representative of the wonders that unfold and you go from one page to the next. Oh, yes, that book cover itself is Skate-Filled Zucchini.
It is one talent to conceive of a great recipe, another talent to produce it, and still a third talent to plate it with the quality of a Renaissance paining. Perhaps that is one reason for the three stars that grace Gerald’s resume.
The book has three chapters and here are some of the fascinating recipes:
Appetizers offers:
Eggplant with Garrigues-Style Goat Cheese
Mackerel Served in a Savory Lemon Broth
Heirloom Tomato and Strawberry Salad
Shellfish Stuffed with Herbs and Ginger
Main Courses includes:
Sea Bream in Garlic Broth
Shoulder of Lamb Baked in Hay with Asparagus
Spider Crab Soup
Spelt Tabbouleh with Mussels, Raisin and Mint
And Desserts suggests a bounty of potential happy endings:
Apricots Poached in Vanilla Syrup with Almond Milk
Almond and Pistachio Nougat
Provencal Lemon Fritters
Spiced Honey Cake
There literally is not one recipe in the book that I don’t want to try. Not one. It’s all that impressive and that inviting. The invitation is not formidable. Yes, the ingredient lists are longish here: sometimes only eight but sometimes up to 20. Yet, each recipe is written on one page in short sentences that literally command you through the recipe. Each verb, like “slice” or “arrange”, is printed in bold as if Gérald were standing over your shoulder and giving you kind but direct guidance.
Not one of the dishes here seems too complicated or challenging. You cannot say that about many cookbooks of beauty where the beauty comes at the price of endless complications. Not here. Flavors from the French Mediterranean is not going to go up on my kitchen bookshelf. It’s going to sit on the kitchen island, a constant reminder and an inspiration.
You, too, will be intrigued, inspired and surely pleased with this book. And, perhaps, we will all meet in Marseille one day. At Gérald’s restaurant?
Oh, if you are a food photographer or a stylist, then this book is a marvelous training ground. The photos here are delightfully superior.