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Jose Pizarro is a renown Spanish chef and cookbook author. He now lives in London where he dashes among his trio of restaurants. Basque is his fourth cookbook. It reflects his love of Basque Country, a sliver of land where Spain and France meet and extending out below the Bay of Biscay. Jose is actually from a region called Extremadura, far to the west on the border with Portugal. Yet, in this book, Jose seeks to highlight the flavors and ingredients of Basque Country, along with some influences from his 16 years in London. Thus we have asparagus in full spring glory.

I’ve written Basque Country because that is the common term. It is a separate culture rising from settlements that are some of the oldest in Europe. Basque uniqueness has been determined genetically and predates the arrival of agriculture over 7,000 years ago. The Basque language is quite distinct, even considered unique. It is not Spanish, not even Indo-European.

So, Basque Country is a very different place. Seacoast, hills, mountains, all abundant with wildlife and crops. A people who love their culinary contests where hundreds of men [and women] compete to lovingly prepare regional dishes.

Jose takes us on a journey through all this territory. And while it does have it remote portions, there are cities and more Michelin 3-star restaurants than in any other spot in the world. Spanish, and Basque, culinary leadership is evident in every market, kitchen, and restaurant.

This book does not begin with a chapter on how to buy and use a whisk. Chapter One is Meat, followed by Fish, Vegetables, and Desserts. Jose assumes you know how to cook. His goal is to get you to extend your portfolio of recipes.

Every recipe here is labeled: Pintxo for smaller tapas-style delights and At the Table for larger, main dishes. You can of course mix and match at will, although the book does end with sample menus for authentic combinations of the recipes in the book.

Let’s look at those four mighty chapters. Meat begins with tapas-style dishes:

Roasted Chicken Wings with Roast Potatoes, Parsley and Garlic

Home-Cured Duck Ham with Pomegranate Salad

Griddled Marinated Quail with Pickled Shallots

The mean main courses include:

Rabbit with White Beans and Chorizo

T-Bone with Anchovy Salsa [shallots, garlic, tomatoes, anchovies!]

Lamb Shank with Jerusalem Artichokes and Black Olives

Roasted Leg of Duck with Sautéed Cabbage, Raisins and Pomegranate

The Fish Chapter begins to show more exotic fare in unexpected combinations:

Grilled Octopus with Peppers and Aubergine

Salt Cod Tortilla with Caramelized Onions

Pan-Fried Hake with Sautéed Wild Chanterelles and Sage

Charred Baby Gem [Lettuce] with Piquillo Peppers, Salted Anchovies and Blue Cheese

Squid Meatballs with Saffron and Almond Sauce

Vegetables starts with a croquette recipe that cannot be ignored and then wanders through the bounty of the fields:

Spinach and Goat’s Cheese Croquetas

Pan-Fried Guindillas [some of the very regional Basque peppers]

Pan-Fried Ceps with Egg Yolk

Eggplant, Honey and Blue Cheese Omelet

Spinach, Blue Cheese and Pine Nut Empanadas [the only empanada in the book!]

Lentils and Goat’s Cheese with Caramelised Walnuts

In Desserts, you know that you are not in Paris or Madrid. There is no chocolate cake, although there is a magnificent Apple Tatin pictured at the end of this post. Among the “different” desserts offered for your pleasure are:

Apple Tatin with Salted Honey Ice Cream

Almond and Cherry Cake [there’s also a Cherry and Almond Soup earlier in the book]

Chestnut Flan

Caramelized Pears with Hazelnut Ice Cream

Cinnamon Fritters with Plum Compote

You’ll recognize most of the ingredients in this lovely book, but the combinations and the techniques provide a flavor shift you are certain to enjoy. What will Suzi and I cook first? I’m torn. The Apple Tatin is so perfectly beautiful. But the Spinach and Goat’s Cheese Croquetas are tempting and the Eggplant, Honey and Blue Cheese Omelet is quite impossible to resist.

Perhaps that is the single best adjective for Basque: irresistible. Whether you prepare just one dish or assemble a full meal, Basque will provide enjoyment and insight into a faraway land that is probably about to pop onto your “have to visit” list.

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