Commander’s Palace in New Orleans was opened in 1880. At some point, not long after that beginning, Commander’s was charmingly famous and then more famous and now is recognized as a national treasure.
New Orleans was, by 1840, the third largest city in the United States, behind New York and Baltimore. The common factors: water and ports. New Orleans is unique with a culinary history shaped by Spanish and French influence, plus the bounty of the marshes and ocean and rivers surrounding if now drowning the city. And then there was all the cargo, boatloads of cargo, that came down the Mississippi River, including barrels and barrels of whisky from Pennsylvania. New Orleans grew and became rich. And that richness drove the food that fed the people.
Commander’s inherited that rich background in 1880 and thrived on it. This cookbook, Commander’s Kitchen from 2000, gives you great detail about the history and diversity that have shaped this American institution. And you’ll even discover the difference between Creole and Cajun styles of cooking. Hint: it involves tomatoes which the Spanish loved and the French thought were poisonous.
The book chapters here are what you might hope would appear in a New Orleans cookbook with the key ones including:
- Cocktails, Eye-Openers, and Other Drinks
- Finger Foods and Appetizers
- Gumbos, Soups and Stews
- Salads
- Brunch
- Seafood
- Meat, Game and Birds
- Side Dishes and Vegetables
- Desserts
Now, there’s grand stuff to be had in all, but some chapters are especially bright diamonds. Brunch at Commander’s is a life-experience event. You’ll find their Bloody Mary recipe here, happily designed for one drink at a time, so you are not gambling on making a pitcher of something you don’t like. You like this one, though, so feel free to scale up.
If you like clams and oysters, the Seafood chapter has an ocean of ideas and fish ones too: Crispy Snapper with Sour Cream Potato Salad and Peas. And Salads will surprise you for “salad” at Commander’s can be a meal unto itself. There is a Marinated Crab Salad and the Onion-Crusted Chicken Salad. You still want to pair that salad with a soup, a really good soup? How about Cauliflower and Brie Soup?
If you crave protein, there is Pheasant Pie that can be made with duck or chicken as well. That would be lovely with a side of Corn Cakes with Sour Cream and Green Onions. If you do like corn crusts, then there are Corn-Fried Oysters with Horseradish Cream.
No matter how long you have lingered at the table, no matter how many Bloody Mary’s have been consumed, you must sample dessert. The signature dessert is Bread Pudding Soufflé with Whiskey Sauce and Meringue. I can’t describe it to you exactly, but I will be showing you a photo next week. This Sunday is Easter and Easter dessert is coming from Commander’s to our table. One of the chefs at Cooking by the Book is coming for Easter dinner and this complicated dessert is his ticket to leg of lamb. It seems fair.
This is a classic cookbook, an American institution. If you can’t get to New Orleans, Commander’s Table is surely the next best thing.