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Classic Coney Sauce

by Brian on June 29th, 2010 in Recipes No Comments

Have you ever orchestrated a surprise for your spouse, a big surprise, and had it not work out exactly as you had fantasized?

I flew Suzen 3000 miles, rented a car, and drove her to a sacred place. Near my boyhood home was, and is, the greatest hot dog stand on the planet. Now known as Roakes, it was The Foot Long, when I grew up in Portland. Long dogs, onions, and the sauce from heaven.

We’d been married for a decade and I had talked and talked about this hot dog stand. Now we were there.

I bought her one, brought it to her, placed it respectfully in front of her, and waited.

Suzen picked it up, smelled it, sighted down the whole length like a rifle barrel, puckered her mouth, took a bite, and chewed. And chewed. And swallowed.

“It’s not Nathan’s,” came her verdict.

I do love her, and I have forgiven her. But I will never forget.

I’m now on a crusade to find a recipe for that sauce. The Foot Long, aka Roakes, won’t give it up. I’m researching on the web and finding lots and lots of recipes. You can search for “hot dog sauce” and “Coney sauce.” Of the ones I have found, this one is the best. I’ve modified it significantly to give the chili punch my memories say are needed. This sauce is delicious and I will use it, while I search for how to modify it to reach the Roakes pinnacle.

If you have a Roakes recipe, please share it. In the meantime, this sauce will make your dogs sensational. Made with all these spices, it is a deep, dark red and actually sticky because of all the spices. Its aromatic richness is the perfect adornment for a dog grilled until it is black and cracked.

Classic Coney Sauce

Yield: 2 quarts of sauce

Ingredients:

2 pounds ground beef
½ cup chopped onion
1 cup ketchup
¼ cup sugar
½ cup vinegar
¼ cup mustard [standard yellow]
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1 tablespoon chili powder

Preparation:

Place the ground beef and onions in a large skillet. Cook over medium high heat until the meat is browned. Turn the meat and separate it with a wooden spoon while cooking.

Pour off any fat that has separated during the cooking process.

Add the remaining ingredients, stir to mix thoroughly, and cook over medium heat for 10-20 minutes. Taste test for doneness to please you and to adjust the seasonings.

Source: Brian O’Rourke

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Red Chile Fried Chicken

by Brian on June 20th, 2010 in Cookbook Reviews,Recipes No Comments

All of us have comfort foods. Rarely, very rarely, is our comfort food healthy. There is something curious about the human desire for comfort and self-destruction. I do not intend to be philosophical here. No, I’m going to be practical. If you are going to eat a comfort food, and it isn’t the healthiest thing in the world, then make darn sure it’s a meal you’ll enjoy. If you are going to clog those arteries with some fried food, then do it well.

I love this recipe for fried chicken with chile flavor augmented by a superior gravy. Look, this dish is so good, so satisfying, that your craving for fried chicken will be met for days. Or hours.  So, net net, you come out ahead eating great fried chicken versus just plain gooped up, ordinary fried chicken. A little chile fire creates a wonderful flavor.

Seriously, fried chicken eaten in moderation is not a hazard to your life span. And a long life depends, in good part, on having a high level of gastronomic satisfaction. I guarantee this recipe will have you smiling. I’m not saying this chicken will save your life, but it will make it better.

Red Chile Fried Chicken

Yield: serves 5

Ingredients:

1 whole broiling chicken, cut up
1 cup buttermilk
1 cup AP flour
½ Panko or dry bread crumbs
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground
½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
1 teaspoon Chimayo chile powder
¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 cup corn or other vegetable oil

Preparation:

Wash and dry the chicken pieces and put it a glass baking dish.  Pour the buttermilk over the chick and turn to coat.  Cover the dish with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.  Mix the flour with the bread crumbs, salt, and spices in a large plastic bag.  One at a time, remove the chicken from the buttermilk and drain, then drop into the seasoned flour and shake to coat thoroughly.  Put the chicken pieces on a rack to dry.

In a large, heavy skillet heat the oil until hot.  Brown the chicken pieces on both sides, about 15 minutes, then reduce the head, add 2 tablespoons of water ad cover the skillet tightly.

Continue cooking about 30 minutes (checking frequently to guard against scorching), then remove the cover.  Continue frying the chicken another 10 to 15 minutes until the coating is crispy and meat is cooked through.

[If you want gravy, use the Southern Fried Chicken recipe on page 217 of The All New Good Housekeeping Cookbook].  The gravy recipe follows.

Ingredients:

¼ cup flour
1 cup milk
1 ¾ cup chicken broth
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper.
1 cup

Prepare the gravy.  Spoon 2 tablespoons oil from the skillet into a 2-quart saucepan.  Over medium heat, with wooden spoon, stir ¼ cup flour into the oil until blended.  Cook, stirring constantly, until flour is lightly browned.  Gradually stir in1 cup of milk, 1 ¾ cups chicken broth, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.  Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until gravy has thickened and boils.  Make 2 ⅔ cups gravy.

Source: Red Chile Bible by Kathleen Hansel and Audrey Jenkins

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