My wife hates ginger. My wife loves ginger. I’m perpetually confused about the circumstance under which she will like a “ginger something.” My approach? I don’t tell her. I let her taste and if she makes a face, I head for another room.
She made no face here. Just a broad smile. “What is this?” she asked.
“Ginger,” I said. See, I am, in the end, an honest man of modest honor.
The secret ingredient here is Domaine Canton Liqueur, a product from France that has existed since 2007. A decade before, there was a similar product made in China that was exported here. But that product line was not successful.
Domaine Canton is successful. You’ll see it now in bars everywhere, there is a wonderful website with recipes and you are sure to want to experiment when you taste this delight. I tasted a version of this at the Red Onion in Saugerties, New York, but I've made enough modifications so that I really can claim this cocktail is "mine."
There is no distinct “ginger” note here really. Just an underlying foundation of “heat” and “spice.” This has become a go-to cocktail for us and I expect it will for you, too. Ginger away!
Spicy Sidecar with Domaine Canton from the Red Onion
Yield: 1 cocktail
Sugar, clove, ground nutmeg and cinnamon mixed for the rim.
2 ounces brandy
1 ounce Domaine Canton
Juice of ½ lemon
1 ounce agave
Make the rimming sugar by combining ½ cup of sugar with ½ teaspoon each of clove, nutmeg and cinnamon. Taste test to your satisfaction. You can add some ginger, too, or cayenne pepper. Just taste test slowly along the way. This stuff is going to rest on your lip.
Put the brandy, Domaine Canton, lemon juice and agave in a cocktail shaker filled with iced. Shake vigorously until well chilled. That’s a good 30 seconds, folks, not five. It’s a lot like the “brush your teeth for 3 minutes” thing.
Use the leftover lemon to rim a cocktail glass. Then rim the glass with the spiced sugar. Fill the glass with ice and then the chilled cocktail.
Source: Brian O’Rourke’s version of the Red Onion original
Photo Information: Canon T2i, EFS 60mm Macro Lens, F/4.5 for 1/40th second at ISO‑2500
Officially, it is fall. Temperature wise, it really is fall. From two years ago, here is a consumate cold night meal: pork cutlets brined in sugar and salt, served with warm coleslaw composed of white and red cabbage and tossed with a dressing composed of walnut oil, olive oil, sherry vinegar and some sugar and spice.
You can prepare this dish is just over half an hour, a perfect pathway for ending a busy day. This recipe is from Pork, the lively new and serious exploration of pigs and porcine recipes by Phil Vickery and Simon Boddy.
As a point of disclosure, Suzen and I have not made this ourselves, yet. But we have plans. On a weeknight, after a busy days of teaching and writing, somes we both just want a simple but elegant meal. Nothing too heavy and definitely something swiftly prepared.
This recipe is perfect for those constraints. You can add some boiled potatoes, as shown in the picture, another veggie of your choice, or just go cutlets+slaw.
Juicy Pork Cutlets with Warm Winter Coleslaw
Yield: serves 4
For the brine:
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1 ¼ cups water
2 tablespoons olive oil
For the pork:
4 boneless, rindless pork cutlets, ¾ inch thick
For the salad:
¼ white cabbage, very finely sliced
¼ red cabbage, very finely slice
1 large carrot, peel and very finely sliced
4 scallions, very finely sliced on the diagonal
1 bunch roughly chopped fresh cilantro
For the dressing:
3 tablespoons walnut oil
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons sugar
1 garlic clove, crushed to a paste
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
Pinch of red pepper flakes with seeds
Put the brine ingredients into a stainless steel saucepan. Dissolve the sugar and salt slowly in the water over low heat, add the oil, then bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool, then top off with cold water to the original quantity of brine (1 ½ cups).
Place the pork cutlets in a glass, ceramic, or stainless steel bowl. Pour in the cold brine and mix well, then let stand in a cool place for 20-30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the salad ingredients. I find the best way is to finely slice the root vegetables using a food processor fitted with a fine slicer attachment. Put the sliced a bowl with the cilantro.
Combine all the dressing ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Transfer to a saucepan and gently warm; do not boil. Pour over the salad and mix really well, then leave in a warm place to marinate.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Drain the pork well, then pat dry with paper towels. Pan-fry gently for 3-4 minutes on each side. Serve with the warm coleslaw and a few boiled new potatoes.
Source: Pork by Phil Vickery and Simon Boddy ©2914 Kyle Books with Photograph © Peter Cassidy
This is a different kind of TBT cookbook review. True, this book was published in 2006, so it is celebrating its tenth year of distinction. When it appeared, Dough was lauded by all and won awards around the world: the Julia Child Award, the IACP Best Cookbook of the Year, and the James Beard Foundation award. It’s both award-winning and a classic.
And, now, it’s back in a 10th Anniversary edition complete with an instructional DVD to make your bread making even simpler. Richard is a baker, teacher, and exceptional writer. Reviewing this new edition, you are immediately impressed with the mixture of detail and simplicity. The breads here range from the very simple to the grandly elegant, yet each one is designed to be fashioned by home bakers that have not spent two years in France working 14 hours a day starring before the sun rises.
How important is bread? It is the core food that made civilization possible. When we stopped being hunter/gatherers, and wanted to settle in villages, it was bread that made that monumental change possible. Bread in some form: round, raised, flat, soft, hard, loaves or rolls or sheets. But bread. The amazing thing is that flour + water + some more things can yield such a range of ideas that have provided the core food for societies around the world.
Now, the subtitle of Dough is Simple Contemporary Bread and those words, “simple” and “contemporary,” are key. The recipes here are direct and, with all the instruction provided, yes they are simple. You can bake bread, these breads. And the breads here do yield contemporary, happy ideas vibrant in flavor and often color. For example, here’s Richard’s brilliant Tomato, Garlic, and Basil Bread:
Yes, I’ll post the recipe for you in the next couple of days. And, yes, warm from the oven, paired with salad and wine, this bread becomes “the meal.”
After over 30 pages of introduction and instruction — remember there is the DVD too! — Dough presents bread option in five chapters. Here are the chapters with some representative ideas:
White Dough: Fougasse; Olive, Herb, and Romano Breadsticks; Gruyere Cheese and Cumin Bread
Olive Dough: Coarse Salt & Rosemary Focaccia; Pancetta and Mixed Olive Bread; Ciabatta
Brown Dough: Apricot and Oat Bread; Honey and Lavender Loaf; Raisin, Hazelnut and Shallot Bread
Rye Dough: Walnut Bread; Rye, Caraway, and Raisin Bread; Anise and Guinness Bread
Sweet Dough: Orange and Mint Loaf; Apricot and Almond Tart; Marmalade Bread and Butter Pudding
With these recipe titles you see the full impact of Richard’s passion for contemporary breads. His skill at classic breads is undisputed, but in Dough you discover his striking use of additional flavors to boost your bread from “mere” bread to “exceptional” bread. Nuts, herbs, seeds, veggies, meat, cheese, and beer appear here, often in combinations that will be intense both in flavor and appearance.
If you have never ever made bread, if that mere thought of making bread gives you enormous pause, then Dough is a book to consider. It was great ten years ago. It is great now. And, if you use Dough, it will be great for every loaf in the rest of your life.