Suzi’s Blog

Egg Nog Ice Cream

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Sometimes, Suzi offers a dish at Cooking by the Book that everybody wants. Everybody. In the front of the picture you see the Salted Caramel Brownie from The New York Times and Baked. It’s lovely. It’s intense. Very intense. So we often pair the brownie with ice cream. You could do vanilla, but this egg nog ice cream is an excellent match. It is NOT intense. Just smooth and subtle and distinctive. Of course, if you have caramel sauce for the brownie, you do not have to be careful. Pour it on that ice cream too! There can never be too much caramel. Never.


Egg Nog Ice Cream

Yield: serves 4-6

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup whole milk
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 7 large egg yolks
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 2 cups chilled heavy cream
  • 3 tablespoons dark rum
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Preparation:

Bring milk and salt to a boil in a 2-to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Remove from heat.

Whisk together yolks and sugar in a bowl, then gradually add 1 cup hot milk, whisking. Add yolk mixture to milk remaining in pan in a slow stream, whisking, and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture is slightly thickened, coats the back of a spoon, and registers 175˚F on a thermometer, 3 to 5 minutes.

Immediately pour through a fine-mesh sieve set into a clean bowl and stir in cream, rum, vanilla and nutmeg. Chill custard, covered, until cold, at least 2 hours.

Freeze in ice cream maker, then transfer to an airtight container and put in freezer to harden, at least 2 hours. Soften slightly in refrigerator before serving, about 20 minutes.


Source: Epicurious.com, 9/8/2006

Bouillabaisse Accompanied by Rouille

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“What am I gonna eat?” I asked. I happen to be a little allergic to shellfish. Like deathly allergic. For her hands on cooking class at Cooking by the Book, Suzi had piles of clams and mussels and shrimp.

“I have some meatballs,” Suzi smiled at me.  She seemed fine. Not mad. There was a good chance these were beef meatballs and not clam ones.

I do enjoy the rich smell of this dish. It can fill the kitchen with wonder. I am always tempted to taste test, but then I remember the final words of that EMT woman a few years ago: “Don’t ever do this again.”

You can do it though. And do make the Rouille and spread it on the bread on the side. You’ll easily be able to imagine you are in the South of France. If only for a few spoonfuls!


Bouillabaisse Accompanied by Rouille

Yield: serves 4

Ingredients:

For the broth:

  • ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 8 shallots, coarsely chopped
  • 2 leeks, white and tender green parts, coarsely chopped
  • 1 medium fennel bulb, cored and coarsely chopped
  • 1 head of garlic, cloves peeled and coarsely chopped
  • 1 tsp tightly packed saffron 3 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 2 teaspoons non-oily white fish bones and heads
  • 4 thyme sprigs
  • 4 parsley sprigs
  • 2 bay leaves
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper

For the rouille:

  • 1 baking potato (8 ounces), peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 2 large garlic cloves, chopped
  • ½ roasted red pepper
  • 4 teaspoons harissa
  • ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt

For the final soup:

  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 leek, white and tender green parts, finely diced
  • ½ medium fennel bulb, cored and cut into ½-inch dice
  • 1 baking potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
  • 1 large tomato—peeled, seeded and cut into½-inch dice
  • 12 littleneck clams, scrubbed and rinsed
  • 16 mussels, debearded
  • 8 large shrimp (1/2 pound), shelled and deveined
  • 1½ teaspoon snapper or monkfish fillets, cut into 2-inch chunks
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 3 tablespoon chopped basil
  • 8 thin slices of baguette, brushed with olive oil and toasted
  • Lemon wedges, for serving

Preparation:

In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots, leeks, fennel and garlic and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 8 minutes.

Add the saffron and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the fish bones and heads, 3 quarts of water, the thyme, parsley and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat for 45 minutes.

Strain the broth and discard the solids. Return the broth to the pot and boil over high heat until it is reduced to 6 cups, about 20 minutes. Season the broth with salt and pepper.

In a small saucepan of boiling, salted water, cook the potato until tender, about 7 minutes. Drain well and transfer to a food processor.

With the machine on, add the egg yolks, chopped garlic, red pepper and harissa and process to a puree. With the machine on, add the olive oil and process very briefly until it's just incorporated. Scrape the rouille into a bowl and season with salt. Cover and refrigerate.

In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic, leek and fennel and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 8 minutes.

Add the potato and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Stir in the broth and bring to a boil. Add the clams and cook over moderate heat until they start to open. Add the mussels, shrimp and fish and simmer until all of the seafood is just cooked, about 4 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and basil; season with salt and pepper.

Spread the baguette toasts with some of the rouille. Spoon the bouillabaisse into 4 large, shallow bowls and serve with the toasts and lemon wedges. Pass the remaining rouille at the table.


Source: Chef Cathal Armstrong, Food & Wine, June 2011

Russian Potato Salad from Smashed Mashed Boiled and Baked by Raghavan Iyer

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I just posted a review of brilliant potato book: Smashed Mashed Boiled and Baked. Author Raghavan Iyer grew up in India where his mother used potatoes regularly. It’s a long way from Peru to India, but potatoes have made the journey worldwide. Every country in the world now seems to grow and relish potatoes. They have become an essential food.

And, they can be exciting. Raghavan displays recipes here that range across every continent. I’m a potato salad fan, but I must admit I’ve not seen one this dense in so many of my favorite flavors. Here you will find capers, scallions, dill, anchovy, and more. This salad is stunningly beautiful and bombastic in flavor.

You may think of potato salad as a summer dish, but, why wait for a sunny day. Potato salad goes equally well with snow. Trust me.


Russian Potato Salad

Yield: serves 4

Ingredients:

For the salad:

  • 1 ½ pounds new red potatoes
  • 6 medium-size to large red radishes, scrubbed, trimmed, and thinly sliced
  • 4 ribs celery, leaves discarded, thinly sliced
  • 1 large English cucumber, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, seeds discarded, and thinly sliced
  • 4 scallions, beards trimmed, green tops and white bulbs thinly sliced
  • ¼ cup baby capers, drained
  • ¼ cup finely chopped fresh dill
  • ½ cup finely chopped fresh chives

For the dressing:

  • 6 anchovy fillets
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
  • 2 large cloves garlic, crushed
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • ¼ cup canola oil
  • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  • ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt
  • ½ teaspoon coarsely cracked black peppercorns

Preparation:

To make the salad, scrub the potatoes well under running water, cut them in half, and place them in a medium-size saucepan. Cover them with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Briskly boil the potatoes, uncovered, until they are just tender but still firm, 12 to 15 minutes. Take care not to overcook the potatoes.

Drain the potatoes in a colander and rinse them under cold running water to cool them down. Give the colander a few good shakes to rid the potatoes of excess water, and transfer them to a large bowl. Add the radishes, celery, cucumber, scallions, capers, dill, and chives to the potatoes.

To make the dressing, place the anchovy fillets, egg yolks, mustard, and garlic in a blender jar and puree, turning off the blender and scraping the inside of the jar as needed, until smooth. Combine the two oils together in a small bowl. With the blender on low speed, drizzle the oils through the hole in the cover in a steady stream. Once the oils are added, you will have a thick emulsion, which is your own homemade mayonnaise. Add the Worcestershire, lemon juice, cayenne, salt, and peppercorns and pulse the dressing to ensure a smooth mix.

Pour the dressing over the salad and give it all a good toss. Serve at room temperature, but because this is a mayonnaise-based salad, do not leave it at room temperature for long periods of time.


Source: Smashed Mashed Boiled and Baked by Raghavan Iyer [Workman, 2016]