Cookbooks

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The Art and Soul of Baking by Cindy Mushet

by Brian on December 6th, 2008 in Cookbook Reviews, Cookie Jar No Comments

How do you evaluate a new cookbook? How can you quickly tell if it presents a treasure chest of new ideas?

I often apply the sticky test. I grab a new packet of Post-it notes, the thin little bookmark ones, and start working my way through the cookbook. If an idea, a recipe name, a picture grabs my attention then I flag the page and move on. Here’s the best possible sign: you run out of stickies before you get to the end of the book.

The Art and Soul of Baking is a best possible book. The first recipe I marked? Maple-Pecan Sticky Buns. This wonderful baking book, from the superior cooking store Sur La Table, is an encyclopedia of best practices and best ideas. The title truly reflects the philosophy of great baking: it is an art and it affects the souls of both those who bake and those who eat.

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Potato, Onion, and Gruyère Galette

by Brian on December 6th, 2008 in Recipes No Comments

Makes 1 (10-inch) galette, serving 8 to 10

Here is a savory version of the free-form fruit tart known in France as a galette. Onions, sautéed until soft and sweet, are combined with sliced potatoes and grated Gruyère, an aged, wonderfully nutty cheese from Switzerland, for a comforting, all-season tart that is as welcome at the brunch table as it is at dinner.

Ingredients

  • 1 recipe Flaky Pie or Tart Dough (page 177), prepared through Step 4
  • 1½ tablespoons olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon for drizzling
  • 1 large onion (12 ounces), thinly sliced
  • ½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme or rosemary
  • ¼ teaspoon plus 1 pinch kosher salt
  • Black pepper
  • 4 ounces Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated
  • 1 pound red potatoes, washed (left unpeeled) and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
  • 1 egg, lightly beaten
  • Crème fraîche, for serving (optional)
  • Golden caviar, for serving (optional)

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