Suzi's Blog

FAT by Jennifer McLagan

by Brian on October 29th, 2008 in Cookbook Reviews 3 Comments

Healthy eating. We all know what that means: no added salt, no added sugar, no added fats. We know it, and it makes us grimace. If I were forced to that awful diet, my first step would be to caramelize a heaping mound of onions. I crave for those added chemical wonders that make food sparkle.

Well, to be accurate, it’s the first two I think I need: salt and sugar. It’s elemental that salt adds a new dimension to food. And sugar. I do love the crinkly sweetness of granulated, the seductive smoothness of confectioners, and the molasses underpinnings of browns. I have to have all those.

But fat? Ah, it’s easier to dispense with fat. Think about it, fat is not pleasant. Imagine a piece of bacon streaked with that opaque, sticky substance that does not even taste good. It’s hard to put in your mouth.

Continue reading…

Duck Breast with Blackberries

by Suzi on October 29th, 2008 in Recipes No Comments

Think of a duck breast (in French, magret de canard) as a good steak with a crisp crust of fat. Like a good steak, it is best served medium-rare. As the duck breast cooks, it renders its fat, which bastes the lean breast meat. You need a good layer of fat between the skin and the meat to achieve the perfect combination of crisp skin and juicy meat. The duck breasts will spit and sputter, so I recommend using a splatter screen, which will minimize cleanup and keep all the fat in the pan.

Duck is often paired with fruit, and although this combination is often too sweet, the acidity of blackberries strikes a perfect balance with the rich duck meat. Fat Fat-Cooked Fries (page 152) and a green vegetable would go well with this dish.

Continue reading…