Suzi’s Blog

TBT Recipe: Juicy Pork Cutlets with Warm Winter Coleslaw from Pork by Phil Vickery and Simon Boddy



Officially, it is fall. Temperature wise, it really is fall. From two years ago, here is a consumate cold night meal: pork cutlets brined in sugar and salt, served with warm coleslaw composed of white and red cabbage and tossed with a dressing composed of walnut oil, olive oil, sherry vinegar and some sugar and spice.

You can prepare this dish is just over half an hour, a perfect pathway for ending a busy day. This recipe is from Pork, the lively new and serious exploration of pigs and porcine recipes by Phil Vickery and Simon Boddy.

As a point of disclosure, Suzen and I have not made this ourselves, yet. But we have plans. On a weeknight, after a busy days of teaching and writing, somes we both just want a simple but elegant meal. Nothing too heavy and definitely something swiftly prepared.

This recipe is perfect for those constraints. You can add some boiled potatoes, as shown in the picture, another veggie of your choice, or just go cutlets+slaw.

Juicy Pork Cutlets with Warm Winter Coleslaw

Yield: serves 4


For the brine:

  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • 1 ¼ cups water
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

For the pork:

  • 4 boneless, rindless pork cutlets, ¾ inch thick

For the salad:

  • ¼ white cabbage, very finely sliced
  • ¼ red cabbage, very finely slice
  • 1 large carrot, peel and very finely sliced
  • 4 scallions, very finely sliced on the diagonal
  • 1 bunch roughly chopped fresh cilantro

For the dressing:

  • 3 tablespoons walnut oil
  • 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed to a paste
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon ground white pepper
  • Pinch of red pepper flakes with seeds


Put the brine ingredients into a stainless steel saucepan. Dissolve the sugar and salt slowly in the water over low heat, add the oil, then bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool, then top off with cold water to the original quantity of brine (1 ½ cups).

Place the pork cutlets in a glass, ceramic, or stainless steel bowl. Pour in the cold brine and mix well, then let stand in a cool place for 20-30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the salad ingredients. I find the best way is to finely slice the root vegetables using a food processor fitted with a fine slicer attachment. Put the sliced a bowl with the cilantro.

Combine all the dressing ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Transfer to a saucepan and gently warm; do not boil. Pour over the salad and mix really well, then leave in a warm place to marinate.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Drain the pork well, then pat dry with paper towels. Pan-fry gently for 3-4 minutes on each side. Serve with the warm coleslaw and a few boiled new potatoes.


Source: Pork by Phil Vickery and Simon Boddy ©2914 Kyle Books with Photograph © Peter Cassidy


TBT Cookbook Review: Dough by Richard Bertinet



This is a different kind of TBT cookbook review. True, this book was published in 2006, so it is celebrating its tenth year of distinction. When it appeared, Dough was lauded by all and won awards around the world: the Julia Child Award, the IACP Best Cookbook of the Year, and the James Beard Foundation award. It’s both award-winning and a classic.

And, now, it’s back in a 10th Anniversary edition complete with an instructional DVD to make your bread making even simpler. Richard is a baker, teacher, and exceptional writer. Reviewing this new edition, you are immediately impressed with the mixture of detail and simplicity. The breads here range from the very simple to the grandly elegant, yet each one is designed to be fashioned by home bakers that have not spent two years in France working 14 hours a day starring before the sun rises.

How important is bread? It is the core food that made civilization possible. When we stopped being hunter/gatherers, and wanted to settle in villages, it was bread that made that monumental change possible. Bread in some form: round, raised, flat, soft, hard, loaves or rolls or sheets. But bread. The amazing thing is that flour + water + some more things can yield such a range of ideas that have provided the core food for societies around the world.

Now, the subtitle of Dough is Simple Contemporary Bread and those words, “simple” and “contemporary,” are key. The recipes here are direct and, with all the instruction provided, yes they are simple. You can bake bread, these breads. And the breads here do yield contemporary, happy ideas vibrant in flavor and often color. For example, here’s Richard’s brilliant Tomato, Garlic, and Basil Bread:



Yes, I’ll post the recipe for you in the next couple of days. And, yes, warm from the oven, paired with salad and wine, this bread becomes “the meal.”

After over 30 pages of introduction and instruction — remember there is the DVD too! — Dough presents bread option in five chapters. Here are the chapters with some representative ideas:

  • White Dough: Fougasse; Olive, Herb, and Romano Breadsticks; Gruyere Cheese and Cumin Bread
  • Olive Dough: Coarse Salt & Rosemary Focaccia; Pancetta and Mixed Olive Bread; Ciabatta
  • Brown Dough: Apricot and Oat Bread; Honey and Lavender Loaf; Raisin, Hazelnut and Shallot Bread
  • Rye Dough: Walnut Bread; Rye, Caraway, and Raisin Bread; Anise and Guinness Bread
  • Sweet Dough: Orange and Mint Loaf; Apricot and Almond Tart; Marmalade Bread and Butter Pudding

With these recipe titles you see the full impact of Richard’s passion for contemporary breads. His skill at classic breads is undisputed, but in Dough you discover his striking use of additional flavors to boost your bread from “mere” bread to “exceptional” bread. Nuts, herbs, seeds, veggies, meat, cheese, and beer appear here, often in combinations that will be intense both in flavor and appearance.

If you have never ever made bread, if that mere thought of making bread gives you enormous pause, then Dough is a book to consider. It was great ten years ago. It is great now. And, if you use Dough, it will be great for every loaf in the rest of your life.

Slow Cooked Lamb with Yogurt Mint Sauce


I am supposed to posting today a wonderful risotto dish from The Goodness of Garlic.  I have the picture right here on my desktop. And the recipe, alas, is a hundred miles away. This weekend, I promise.

So, for my backup, here’s another recipe from  The Goodness of Garlic by Natasha Edwards. It’s a garlic intensive book and this recipe shines out: it asks for 7 hours of cooking. You’ve had pulled pork where the meat really is falling off the bone. Well, here’s pulled lamb complete with veggies cooked and cooked and stewed to perfection.

You can certainly add some potatoes to the veggies here. The veggie ensemble will be emboldened with the lamb juices forming the ideal autumn meal. If you are a football fan, you can start this on a Sunday morning and serve as the second game of the dayhas ended and just as Sunday night football begins. Enjoy the games and enjoy the aroma of all this lovely dish. This is comfort food created one hour at a time.

Slow Lamb with Yogurt Mint Sauce

Yield: serves 4 to 6


For the lamb:

  • 4 pounds shoulder of lamb
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 onions, sliced
  • 4 carrots, quartered lengthwise
  • 1 garlic bulb or 8 to 10 cloves, peeled and left whole
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 cup white wine
  • 1 cup vegetable, beef or chicken stock

For the sauce:

  • 3 tablespoons plain yogurt
  • 2 sprigs of fresh mint, leaves only
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 250°F.

Season the lamb well with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat the olive oil in a large roasting pot on high heat. Add the lamb joint to the roasting pot and fry for about 15 minutes, turning regularly, until browned all over. Turn down the heat.

Add the vegetables, garlic cloves, and bay leaf around the meat, then pour in the wine and stock. Bring to a boil before placing the casserole in the oven. Cook for up to 7 hours. (Although the meat will be cooked after about 5 hours, it’s best left for the full time if possible.) Turn the meat halfway through cooking.

Remove the pot from the oven and transfer the lamb and vegetables to a serving dish. Cover with foil and return to the oven to keep warm.

To make the sauce, skim off any excess fat from the liquid in the pot, then place the pot on the stove top on medium heat. Boil until the liquid has reduced by about a quarter, then add the yogurt and mint leaves, stirring well. Reduce the heat so the sauce comes to a simmer, remove the mint leaves, and add seasoning if needed.

Pour the sauce into a gravy pot and serve the lamb with mashed potatoes and a steamed green vegetable.

Source: The Goodness of Garlic by Natasha Edwards [Kyle, 2106]